Hotel Primero Primera

At Barcelona’s Hotel Primero Primera, the owner’s family has lived on the first floor since the doors opened in 1955, and it shows. Spending the night is a bit like staying with an old friend with impeccable taste and a talent for hospitality. A renovation in 2011 did nothing to dampen the convivial spirit — it simply added a modern sheen to an interior defined by mid-century furniture and a timeless spiral staircase. This is the kind of effortlessly charming boutique that’s got all the requisite modern trappings, but doesn’t forget the value of a good, solid reading lamp.

Situated among the residential prosperity of Tres Torres, Barcelona’s century-old mansion district, the hotel is perfect for those who enjoy the endless possibilities of Las Ramblas, but don’t feel the need to stay there at the end of a long, tourist-saturated day. The airy guest rooms are great places to hole up for long stretches, as complimentary snacks and beverages can be delivered anytime, day or night. The public spaces are stuffed with books and leather chairs — it’s as if your most worldly uncle decided to host a literary salon. There’s ample room for a business lunch, cat-nap, or heady fireside chat.

If the personal touch of the owners extends to every detail, so does a refreshing level of trust: the honesty bar relies on guests to tally up their own tabs. As for food, in this part of town, the lack of a dedicated hotel restaurant isn’t a big deal. Tres Torres might not be a shopper’s paradise, but it does boast its fair share of fine dining — the perfect excuse for a quick stroll through one of Barcelona’s most tranquil neighborhoods.