The former BBC TV Centre on Wood Lane may be an unlikely setting for a Japanese restaurant but Yokohama-born Endo Kazutoshi has created a stylish and good-looking space on the top floor; the highlight of which is a beautiful counter fashioned from 200-year-old hinoki wood. He was trained in Edomae techniques but has considerable international experience, so the nigiri is interspersed with dishes of a more modern composition. Ingredients are either imported from Japan, such as rice from Yamagata, or are the best the UK has to offer, like scallops from Orkney; he also uses fish caught by Japanese fishermen in Cornwall. The preparations are impressive and the flavours subtle and well-judged. Endo guides diners through the experience himself and explains each element of the omakase in an engaging and charming way.