The former BBC TV Centre on Wood Lane may be an unlikely setting for a Japanese restaurant but Yokohama-born Endo Kazutoshi has created a stylish and good-looking space on the top floor; the highlight of which is a beautiful counter fashioned from 200-year-old hinoki wood.

The experienced, peripatetic chef is a real showman and creates a memorable dining experience, explaining each element of the omakase in an engaging and charming way. Ingredients are either imported from Japan, such as rice from Yamagata; or are the best that Europe has to offer, like clams from Poole Harbour, monkfish from Brixham, cuttlefish from Brittany and tuna from Spain. The preparations are impressive and the flavours subtle and well-judged. No detail is overlooked, with water even imported from Endo’s home town to ensure that the cooked rice has the perfect PH.