Set in the space formerly occupied by Le Cirque (in the striking curved glass edifice of the Bloomberg building), the crowd here is a mix of the corporate and idle rich. Lofty ceilings, sculptural chandeliers, and geometric patterns dominate the interior; hues of royal blue make a nice contrast against the gleaming metal, dark wood, and leather banquettes.

The menu minors in solid renditions of Sichuan classics like dan dan noodles and mapo tofu, but unusual takes on dim sum is where it earns honors. Highlights include xiao long bao, which quite literally bursts with the porky richness of hot and sour soup (featuring wood ear mushroom, black vinegar, and zesty chilies), as well as truffle-redolent steamed buns crafted into clever facsimiles of shiitakes.