MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Ever-changing daily specials and a respectable wine list—celebrated with a weekday happy hour—have fostered the favorable reputation of Astoria’s favorite trattoria. Local foodies fill the wee room, a moderately dressed space with sage-green banquettes and a wall-mounted blackboard displaying the names of farms and producers sourced for the menu’s array of contemporary Italian food. To that end, tender meatballs are braised in a serrano chili-sparked tomato sauce; and free-range chicken Milanese is plated with a swipe of roasted lemon purée. For dessert, la torta del piccolo bambino Gesu Cristo reveals a block of excellent sticky toffee pudding cake that arrives warm, caramel-soaked, and capped with a refreshing scoop of crème fraîche sorbet.