The name says it all—Tiny’s is indeed tiny, but in that old New York, wood-burning fire and pressed-tin ceiling kind of way. Enter this narrow Federal-style home (c. 1810) and sidle up to the beautiful people along the pew seats that overlook a poster of the Marlboro Man. Alternatively, head on up to the suitably named Bar Upstairs.

The setting is so rich with character that one could simply be satisfied by Tiny’s fine burger, featuring dry-aged rib-eye and a side of cheddar tater tots. However, this is a surprisingly ambitious kitchen turning out some very clever dishes. The wild Coho salmon for example, is grilled to specification and plated with vadouvan-spiced beurre blanc; while the vanilla flan slicked with cold caramel syrup makes a wonderful finale.