Even in Tokyo’s smart Ginza district, sushiyas tend to be low-key, discreet little places but there’s no such modesty here in midtown. In fact, the city’s branch of this international chain has gone full-on Fifth Avenue, where even the ceiling is of cathedral-like proportions.The 16-seater cypress counter is the focus of the room. Here, particularly at lunch, you’ll find several solitary Japanophiles satisfying their cravings by ordering ten or more pieces of nigiri before scurrying back to their offices. Some of the chefs are more enthusiastic than others when it comes to engaging with the diners seated opposite them, but all work with the same practiced, fluid movements.At dinner, the omakase is a more significant affair—reflected in the prices—where the chefs demonstrate their mastery over a number of different seasonal fish. The koshihikari rice is yuki-tsubaki from the Niigata Prefecture and is seasoned with red vinegar, which makes it quite dark in color. Each piece is simply brushed with nikiri and occasionally some grated yuzu, but on the whole this is about enjoying natural flavors. The impressive selection of nihonshu, presented on an iPad, includes many small producers.