MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
This old-time idol deserves its landmark status as it has been going strong since opening in 1973. With Italian-American cooking so rampant in the city, it’s wholly refreshing to happen upon a classic of such welcoming comfort. The décor is outdated, but white tablecloths are clean and crisp, and glasses gleam at the prospect of great wine varietals. With a trio of pasta, you needn’t choose between fusi swirled in a grappa- mushroom- and Grana-sauce; squid ink taglierini; or maltagliati in a roasted tomato and basil sauce with a touch of cream. Branzino in bianco is delightfully flaky and smothered in a delicious lemon, butter, white wine and caper sauce. The wine list, with vintage Italian legends and California cults, is incredible.