Olmsted hasn’t lost any of its luster, with Brooklynites continuing to pack its ever-hip and happening space. Reservations are a challenge, but those lucky enough to nab a seat are treated to Chef Greg Baxtrom’s concise and thoughtfully conceived menu of starters and entrées.

Forget farm to table; this kitchen is backyard to table thanks to a blooming and expanded vegetable and herb garden. Creativity is abundant, as seen in snap pea sushi, which subs out rice for raw peas; and lobster thermidor with meaty crackers alongside a frothy lobster-Gruyère dip. While the carte changes often, a few constants remain, like the Thai green papaya salad tweaked with shaved asparagus, or a carrot crêpe draped over clams and plated on an orange dish—natch.