MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View

New Wonjo offers a delightful 24-hour respite in this jam-packed quarter of K-town. The modest space is mighty popular for barbecue-seeking groups. These grills still use charcoal only, adding to the overall lure, though it's hands-on only during dinner. No matter the time, one can expect to find hordes of diners huddling around platters of marinated beef short ribs (kalbi) or thinly sliced pork belly (samgyupsal). Non-barbecue delights include mandoo, chap chae and cochu pa jeon. Be sure to keep room for soups like ban gye tang-a soothing ginseng-infused broth with sticky rice- garlic- and jujubes-stuffed chicken. Gobdol bibimbap with minced beef, a runny egg and other spicy condiments is wonderfully flavorful but only incendiary upon request.