Welcome to Danny Bowien’s raucous, Sichuan-esque New York outpost of the San Francisco original. Long lines—often starring celebrities and nightlife VIPs—are to be expected. Once inside, everything about this space can seem disorienting—from the bar’s UV backlighting to the dizzying hall of mirrors downstairs. That said, this is a totally unique experience combining Sichuan spices with dishes unknown to the province—think steak tartare or hot cheese pizza. The kitchen is clearly having fun, and that is A-OK, as they pull it off in a way that never feels gimmicky. Just remember to pay attention to the prices (like the $100 duck). The smoky, fatty kung pao pastrami with potatoes, dried peppers and peanuts could even give Katz’s a run for its money.