MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
The larb here really is good enough to be the restaurant’s namesake as these spicy, crunchy, salty and herb-y salads sing with flavor. Yet Larb Ubol does much more with equal skill: the sheer size of their massive chicken wings defy nature, yielding enough crisp-skinned and chili-coated meat to satisfy any appetite. Yum moo krob mixes impossibly tender pork with abundant green chilies in a fish sauce dressing for a brilliant counterpoint in flavor; while kai jeow, a Thai-style omelet, is an unexpectedly comforting dish that highlights excellent technique. There may be a choice of three fillings, but the pickled garlic can’t be beat. The space itself is no more than basic; the location is, well, meh. Service is friendly, though not necessarily speedy.