Ko

Tucked into an East Village alley, Ko has been the pride and joy of David Chang's culinary empire since opening in 2014. Though it's now under the stewardship of Chef Esther Ha, some things remain unchanged, like the upbeat soundtrack, sleek counter staged around a kitchen with nowhere to hide and a vibe so relaxed that diners might even sing along.
Chef Ha brings new ideas to the fore. A sweet potato, slow-roasted until it achieves an almost custardy texture, is served with dashi broth and crispy fried yuba, while a perfectly crisp "cutlet" of panko-breaded mushroom, is paired with an ultra-rich sauce of foie gras and caramelized doenjang. Desserts display irreverent creativity, as in a Bakewell tart made with a sweet tomato jam and served with a juniper-scented whipped cream.