MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
If the Eastern European intelligentsia needed somewhere to plan a revolution or maybe just talk politics, they would meet here. Walls papered with Cyrillic newspapers set a deliciously covert scene, yet overall, the effect is inviting. The menu highlights Serbian fare that is hard to find in Manhattan. That said, some specialties will seem familiar, like zeljanica, a buttery wedge of classic phyllo pie folded with chopped spinach, garlic, herbs and feta. Unique dishes feature dried prunes stuffed with crumbly cheese, rolled in chicken liver and bacon. Also try gently dredged and fried spearing fish, piled on butcher paper with urnebes dip. Ćevapi are the catchall for sausages from the same area and here they highlight finely ground pork with herbs.