Thanks to tall communal tables that practically fill the dining room, Chef Hooni Kim’s Hell’s Kitchen hot spot is both festive and bustling. Attractive and smartly designed, its silk panels, pottery and striking display of spoons are further enhanced by a flattering lighting scheme.

Equally impressive are the menu’s myriad small plates, each of them a refreshing take on Korean specialties. Blocks of soft tofu are quickly deep-fried and boldly dressed with gochujang and a ginger-scallion vinaigrette. Poached daikon rings accompanied by bok choy are glazed with a dark and spicy sauce and stacked high for dramatic presentation. Vegetarian highlights include spicy, crispy dumplings filled with tofu, vegetables and cellophane noodles.