MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Bagels and bialys reign supreme in this culinary institution, set amid a culturally rich stretch dotted with synagogues and purveyors of authentic deli delights. Not all are created equal, though, and little details make all the difference inside this sturgeon king, lauded for its weathered décor featuring muraled walls, a storied past, and service that is as authentically NY as can be. It’s the sort of spot families flock to for brunch—imagine a triple-decker (tongue, turkey and Swiss cheese) on rye, paired with a pickle, of course. Whether you take-out or eat-in, items like chopped liver with caramelized onions and boiled egg are sure to sate. Finish with a black-and-white cookie, rugelach, or rice pudding, which are all local faves and fittingly so.