MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
The look here may be demure with its pale pink walls and gilded artwork, but this gem serves up a bounty of bold, northern-leaning specialties. And though tables are draped in embroidered linen, glass tops encourage diners to partake in the flavor-packed cooking as lustily as they please. A shelf of snacks is the extent of the restaurant's retail component, but these will be the last thing on your mind after consuming their excellent gai yang sided by sweet chili sauce; or nua nam tok, a warm salad of grilled steak tossed with roasted rice powder, red onion slivers and fragrant herbs. Pla duk fu is very Thai and pairs puffy fried bits of catfish with lime, papaya, peanuts and raw onions for a can't-miss hit packed with superb crunch and flavor.