MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
This corner bar on Randolph Street’s restaurant row may be dim, but it’s got a few glittering edges. The reel-to-reel in the doorway lends a retro feel, but the rest is decidedly cushy. Late-night revelers prefer to sit at tufted leather booths or savor beers at the zinc-topped bar rather than endure a wait for a table in the raucous space. Bartenders work just as hard as line cooks until the wee hours. The kitchen puts a highfalutin spin on simple bar eats. In-house butchers craft 32-ounce pork Porterhouses for sharing; foie gras for folding into fluffy scrambled eggs; and house-made sausages for bologna sandwiches that go well beyond a kid's wildest dreams. Thin griddled cheeseburger patties are comparably perked up by maple syrup-glazed peppered bacon.