Castello Banfi - Il Borgo Relais & Chateaux

At Castello Banfi il Borgo, the 14-room boutique is only the keep to this Tuscan castle-on-a-hill — the castello is the headquarters of the working wine estate, while the borgo is the boutique hotel that’s been fashioned from the adjoining village buildings. If the property ended at the sandstone walls, it would still be a must-visit for anyone passing through the countryside near Siena. Thankfully, there’s also the small matter of a seven-thousand-acre vineyard, sloping gently down from the fortress to meet the surrounding valley — and it’s worth knowing that your stay includes a tasting, a vineyard and winery tour with the sommelier, and a discount at the hotel’s wine shop.

The postcard-ready look of the castle lording over its lush domain is a pretty good indication of what you’ll find within the walls: exposed stone arches, vaulted ceilings and sturdy timber beams. It’s all very well preserved and restored, and while modern amenities abound — flat screen TVs, Nespresso machines, et cetera — they tend to exist unobtrusively so as not to disturb one iota of the hotel’s period elegance. There’s actually quite a bit of variation between the guest rooms, although floral patterns tend to creep up consistently (think of them as top notes).

Between the heated swimming pool at the edge of the vineyards and the two Tuscan restaurants, there’s no shortage of luxury. Taverna Banfi, situated in the former wine cellar, serves traditional staples with a haute twist for lunch, while La Sala dei Grappoli offers refined seasonal meals al fresco on the terrace. But some of the more intriguing aspects of the estate hint at the richness of the experience. The 13th-century wing houses a museum of glass that features artifacts from ancient Rome to the present. If pitchers and urns aren’t really your thing, get this: they’ve recently unearthed a complete whale skeleton on the estate grounds. Castello Banfi il Borgo: come for the wine, stay for the giant fossils.

Please note:
Castello Banfi Il Borgo is open seasonally from March through November.

How to get there:
Castello Banfi Il Borgo is approximately two hours by car from the Florence and Pisa airports, and two and a half from the Rome airport. If you are using a GPS device simply type “Poggio alle Mura” in the destination field. The closest train stations are Grosseto (coastal line Rome/Genova), one hour by car, and Chiusi-Chianciano Terme (internal line Rome/Florence), one hour and 45 minutes.