The coolest joint in Jason Atherton’s stable comes with distressed walls, moody lighting and a laid-back vibe – it also has a terrific speakeasy-style bar upstairs. The serving team may look as though they’ve just been chopping wood outside but they know the menu backwards and contribute enormously to the overall fun of the place.

The ‘Sampler’ menu is an easy way of experiencing the full breadth of the kitchen’s talents, although the à la carte also shows the modern cooking style to full effect. Influences are international, with effective combinations of flavours being punchy and well-judged. Food miles from the largely British suppliers are shown on the reverse of the menu. Cumbrian steaks are a speciality and are 40, 45 or 60 day aged and expertly cooked on the Josper grill. The well-chosen wine list includes some eclectic choices by the glass.