The location in a modern building shared with the bus station and the spartan, industrial-style interior dominated by bare concrete hardly conjure up images of the rich, fertile local soils, that is until you look on your plate. Chef-owner Enda McEvoy was one of the first chefs in Ireland to champion natural ingredients and also to build personal relationships with his suppliers to ensure the quality of his produce – and, as such, his menus are fiercely seasonal.
Dishes are original and creative but have a well-judged simplicity to them, letting natural flavours shine while offsetting them with subtle contrasts – often in the form of acidity, which adds great dimension to the dishes. Vegetables are also used to great effect. The fully open kitchen allows diners to see the intense focus from both Enda and his team and their pride is palpable as they deliver the dishes to the table. Service is smooth and professional yet also relaxed.