Though it’s popular with the locals, Soregashi also lures fans from far and wide, and for good reason. This little sushiya is serious-minded without being seriously pricey, offering a welcome middle ground between those cheap maki factories and high-end omakase counter destinations.

The nigiri, from toro to tai (snapper), are of pristine quality; and the excellence of the fish belies its simplicity—even minced tuna with scallions or hamachi sashimi sing in the capable hands of these itamae. As if that isn’t enough, they also do an excellent job with izakaya standbys, from house-made cold soba noodles to crispy octopus. The stir-fried Japanese eggplant with miso paste is a melt-in-your-mouth delight, tailed by soft, silken tofu with dashi gelée.