MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Look completely past the strip mall location and head into this storefront for some of the more nuanced Thai cooking around. Pop music and colorful plastic tablecloths create a leisurely, relaxed mood, so place your order and head to a table on the patio. This kitchen is helmed by an ex-Hawker Fare chef, so expect spice blends and house-made curry pastes at the base of each dish. The menu is small but mighty, with items that exude a playful spirit. Nowhere is this clearer than in the "party wings," which sound like a good time but in fact have great depth of flavor. The som tom is an idyllic toss-up of shredded green papaya as well as dried shrimp and long beans pounded together with fish sauce, sugar and lime for a dreamy bite of cool, sweet and heat.