The carnivorous heart of Nancy Silverton’s “Mozzaplex” is as intimate and engaging as it is expensive—a place to splurge on date night with a special vintage and view of the bustling wood-fired oven and grill. The result is a modern Italian take on the old-school steakhouses of a bygone era, with the focaccia di recco and bistecca alla Fiorentina being some of their key indulgences. Others may choose to feast upon the exquisite house charcuterie, from pistachio-crusted pork terrine to classic pancetta and speck. A perfectly grilled and boldly flavored lamb shoulder chop meets its match in oven-roasted cauliflower tossed with garlicky bagna cauda. If that's insufficient absolution, the dark and decadent cocoa nib-caramel tart should send you over the top.