Seeking a modern departure from wine country’s faux-rustic aesthetic? This restaurant in the eco-chic h2hotel will fit the bill with reclaimed wood tables and 3-D artwork. Its bar is a local haunt, with wine-weary tasters arriving to palate-cleanse via an extensive list of cocktails. In the kitchen, a husband-and-wife chef team successfully guides the menu in a sophisticated, vegetable-driven direction. Find such inventive dishes as Meyer lemon-ricotta gnudi in a parmesan-mushroom broth; or seared scallops with roasted and pickled brassica and black garlic purée. Should you order dessert, like the honey-crème fraîche panna cotta, don't be surprised if a second arrives gratis-the chef likes to test out her latest experiments on an all-too-willing public.