Chef Poncho Cadena is in charge at this moody space where it will take your eyes a minute to adjust to the darkness. Library-style stacks of mesquite wood serve as a dramatic design theme but also as a not-so-subtle hint at the live fire concept. The menu is divided into vegetables, seafood and "black market" meats including tongue, sweetbread and more. These plates are ideal for sharing, though a chef's tasting menu is on hand for those who want to sample it all. Nuanced cooking is seen in dishes like the onion petals filled with habanero aïoli, coated in charcoal tempura batter, and fried. Served simply in a bowl, guests are encouraged to use their hands to scoop up these delights. Tail-on shrimp over a thick slice of pork belly leans sweet but satisfying.