Savannah Riedler, the Wine Director at Lilo in Carlsbad, has designed a wine list that reads like a road map through California, prioritizing small producers from the state’s four main wine regions, and sharing a breadth of a winemaker’s work rather than a single bottling. The winner of this year’s MICHELIN Guide California Sommelier Award, presented in partnership with Franciacorta, Riedler is passionate about connecting with guests by telling stories through the wines she chooses to pair with Chef Eric Bost’s contemporary Californian cuisine.
We recently connected with her to learn more.
How were you introduced to the world of wine?
Every time I think of this question, I imagine giving the romantic answer: growing up in a home where wine was always on the table. But the reality was quite the opposite. I didn’t grow up in a household that drank wine at all. In fact, I’m ironically the only person in my family who drinks wineMy introduction to wine came from much humbler beginnings: asking servers around me about what they were pouring and why. As I learned more, it became clear that wine is an incredibly layered subject, tied to nature, history, art, conflict, climate and most importantly, people. I was hooked.
That curiosity led me to seek out a wine-focused job here in San Diego. I was fortunate that the owners of Vino Carta hired me despite having very minimal wine knowledge at the time. Vino Carta is a retail shop and wine bar with more than 400 SKUs on the shelves and a by-the-glass list that changes weekly. In that environment, I was able to taste more broadly and was exposed to classic regions, emerging regions, importers, distributors, consumer trends and more.
In this role, I found myself reading endlessly about fermentation techniques, vessels and production methods. That curiosity eventually led me to apply for my first harvest, working with David Ramey. Becoming versed in the production side of wine ended up being one of the best decisions I’ve made for my career.
Could you tell us more about your wine list at Lilo? What will diners typically find?
At its heart, our wine list is a road trip through California, highlighting the state’s four major wine regions: the South Coast, Central Coast, Inland Valleys and Northern California. Beyond California, our deepest focus is on Burgundy and Champagne, with supporting roles played by Italy, Austria and Spain.Guests can expect to find both breadth and inclusivity in our producer selection and vintage range; wines that feel familiar alongside producers who may have just released their very first bottling. I tend to buy wine in a similar way to how our chef sources ingredients: If I truly believe in a winemaker, I want to showcase multiple expressions of their work rather than a single bottle. This approach speaks to the foundation of our dining experience, which is deeply rooted and inspired by storytelling.
What are some of the most unusual bottles on the list?
Our Cabernet Franc selection is small but mighty: Spottswoode Lyndenhurst 1995 and Wongamat 2022 Untertürkheimer Herzogenberg. It speaks to the focus on both historic and emerging producers.What makes for the perfect food-wine pairing? What is your process for determining what works best?
I think the perfect food and wine pairing comes down to two things: flow and synergy, the way a pairing feels both within a single course and within the larger rhythm of the menu.Conceptualizing a pairing begins with understanding the texture of the dish and its profile. From there, I consider how it lives within the overall progression of the menu, rather than adhering strictly to a conventional pairing format, which can sometimes limit the best possible expression for a course. I also think about the balance of countries, styles and vintages represented throughout the experience, ensuring that there is both contrast and cohesion as the menu unfolds.
What is your favorite wine and food pairing at Lilo?
The abalone course has been especially fun to pair with. It sits as the third course, right before the middle of the menu and just before the caviar ice cream course, so I’m able to highlight a savory style of white wine.For the beverage pairing, I’ve been particularly fond of pouring Matt Taylor’s 2023 Sauvignon Blanc from Mammoth Rock Vineyard in Occidental [in Sonoma Country, California]. The wine undergoes a slow press cycle, which helps avoid the over-extraction of bitterness often associated with Sauvignon Blanc, and a long élevage that allows its salinity and elegance to fully develop. It’s a truly singular expression of the variety, and it pairs beautifully with the texture of the abalone and impressions of porcini mushrooms, fresh menegi [young scallion shoots] and sansho leaf.
In the Champagne pairing, my favorite is highlighting Pierre Gerbais’ La Loge alongside our first dessert of cucumber. The placement of this course, following A5 Miyazaki wagyu, calls for something vibrant, light and refreshing. The cucumber, lemon verbena and avocado mousse bring brightness and lift, which align with the precision and freshness of the old vine Pinot Blanc.
Why is it important to go beyond wine and also pair food with things like nonalcoholic beverages, sake and Champagne?
Drinking styles have evolved significantly post-COVID, as have dining experiences. We’re seeing a younger generation of diners who are looking for a more dynamic beverage experience that extends beyond wine to include sake and nonalcoholic pairings. At the same time, during COVID many people began drinking more Champagne at home, which helped re-energize interest in grower Champagne in particular. That shift has carried into dining rooms, where guests are more informed and more curious about style differences and producer-driven selections.For me, it’s exciting to have deeper conversations with guests about those preferences and to introduce them to the range of smaller producers now making their way into the U.S. market.
What's the biggest misconception about being a sommelier, or wine in general?
I can definitely think of a few. My family loves to tease me that my job is just drinking wine and visiting vineyards, for example. In reality, the role of a sommelier, especially today, goes far beyond tasting wine and visiting wineries. There’s a significant financial and service responsibility behind the role. I like to describe my job as roughly 60/40: 60% administrative work (with my assistant GoogleSheets) and 40% service, including guest interaction, team training and floor presence.Another common misconception is that formal certification is a requirement to become a sommelier. In practice, it’s not unlike other leadership roles in restaurants; you don’t take a test to become a general manager. Instead, the role is earned through experience; by learning the operational side of restaurants, building trust with guests and developing your team over time.
What advice would you give to someone who wants to become a sommelier?
Give yourself grace and stay open-minded. Keep exposing yourself to people with different wine backgrounds, and don’t be afraid to move between different work environments so you can experience a range of styles and service philosophies. If you’re able, work a harvest in a wine region that excites you, and definitely make friends with the people at your local wine bar/shop.Related Articles:
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Hero image: MICHELIN Guide California Sommelier Award winner, Savannah Riedler. © Lilo