A classic among the Southern states of America, a “chicken fried” dish consists of a cutlet of beef or chicken that’s been coated with seasoned flour, pan-fried, and served with a gravy. The chicken fried chicken is similar to that of Austria’s wiener schnitzel.
At Dove’s Luncheonette, a Bib Gourmand eatery in Chicago’s Wicker Park neighborhood, chicken fried chicken is a crowd-pleasing favorite. Here, chef de cuisine Tom Carlin brines his bird for the dish, using a 1:1:1 ratio of salt, sugar and water. “You brine according to the size of the item,” he says. “For example, one hour will do the trick for boneless, skinless chicken thighs.”
The chicken is then dredged in a flour that’s been seasoned with salt, onion and garlic powders, as well as a few chile powders, before being dipped in buttermilk followed by a second dredge in the seasoned flour.
When frying the chicken, Carlin has an important tip: don’t touch it. “Every time you poke the chicken, you crack the breading or reduce the temperature, releasing delicious juices and drying the meat,” he says. Carlin suggests cooking by time: 15 to 20 minutes is a good range for bone-in, skin-on pieces.
“All fried chicken has a certain soulfulness to it,” he adds. “Ours really brings home the idea of what Dove’s Luncheonette is—a combination of America's rich southern food history with authentic Mexican recipes inspired by norteño cuisine.”
Chicken Fried Chicken
Recipe courtesy of Chef de Cuisine Tom Carlin, Dove’s Luncheonette, ChicagoIngredients
Chicken Fried Chicken:
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon kosher salt, divided
1 cup granulated sugar
1 gallon water
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon ancho chile powder
1 cup buttermilk
Chorizo Gravy:
1/2 pound green chorizo
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 cup whole milk
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
For Serving:
1 cup peas, blanched
1 cup pearl onions, peeled and blanched or roasted
Method
1. Brine the chicken: Combine the sugar, water and 1 cup salt in a large container; place the chicken in container and seal tight. Store in refrigerator and brine for 1 hour.
2. Meanwhile, set up a dredging station: place the flour and remaining seasonings in one shallow dish and the buttermilk in another; reserve.
3. Make the gravy: Place the green chorizo in a large skillet and bring to medium heat; break up the chorizo and render out the fat. Whisk in the flour and butter to build a roux; whisk in the milk until thick. Season to taste and reserve.
4. Remove the chicken from brine and pat dry. Dredge the chicken in the seasoned flour, patting off any excess. Dip in the buttermilk, letting excess drip off. Return to the flour mixture and dredge again, pressing and pushing as much flour as you can onto the meat.
5. Carefully place the breaded chicken into a deep fryer set to 350˚F and cook until the internal temperature reads 165˚F, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove and let drain on paper towels. Serve with the gravy, peas and pearl onions.
Photos by Chloe List.
