Villa Retiro

The word “modernist” means something different in the context of Catalonian architecture. This late-19th-century palace owes nothing to Bauhaus or other visually austere traditions; its fanciful spires and parapets feel almost postmodern to today’s eye. In its present incarnation as a luxury boutique hotel, Villa Retiro has preserved all of the original structure’s ornate detail, and has added a contemporary building containing a further ten suites in a style that reads as modernist in the international sense —  crisp, clean lines, an absence of ornament, and unadorned local timber.

As a hotel it’s no doubt impressive; the historical opulence of the original rooms and suites is complemented by modern comforts and conveniences, while the new suites are spacious and perfectly restful. A spa and wellness center with a variety of hydrotherapy treatments is a welcome addition. But it’s what’s in the villa’s old carriage house that makes Villa Retiro ultimately worth the trip: a Michelin-starred restaurant under the direction of chef Fran López, a fourth-generation hospitality professional, as well as a culinary school for guests who are not content to leave Mr. López’s cooking behind when it’s time to depart.