Fans of the late Fat Rice will be happy to see the restaurant’s return by way of this casual second act. The open kitchen and generous bar seating remain, though diners now order at a counter before finding a perch at the communal high-top or along the edge of the room.
Cantonese-style char siu pork collar and jumbo shrimp with chili-garlic arrive with fluffy coconut rice and aggressively charred scallions. Wide, house-made rice noodles are either steamed or wok-seared, before being paired with the likes of minced soy sauce beef, smoked tofu, or smoked mushrooms. It is, by all means, very easy to over-order, but under no circumstance should diners skip those egg custard tarts. Warm and creamy, they are a holdover recipe that is perfection personified.