Delfina

One of the city of San Francisco's greats for rustic California-Italian meals, Delfina is nestled on a block of gems for food lovers, including Bi-Rite (and its creamery), Tartine Bakery and sister spot, Pizzeria Delfina. But even with this rarefied competition, Delfina continues to book well in advance and draws long lines for its few walk-in seats.

The lively dining room is attended to by a warm cadre of servers, and the bill of fare shifts with the seasons. Soul-satisfying dishes might include doppio raviolo filled with ricotta di bufala and fava bean purée, roasted chicken with olive oil-mashed potatoes or wild king salmon with a caper-laced beurre blanc. Pea shoots with stracciatella is a simply wonderful side dish, while seasonal desserts are notable.