Ko has been the pride and joy of David Chang's culinary empire. Open since 2014 and tucked into an East Village alley, it begins a new chapter under the stewardship of Chef Esther Ha. Some things remain unchanged, like the upbeat soundtrack, sleek counter staged around a kitchen with nowhere to hide, and a vibe so relaxed that diners might even sing along.
Favored dishes, like the chickpea hozon with sea urchin, are still here and still excellent. Chef Ha though carries the torch forward, bringing new ideas to the fore—aged strip loin with onion béarnaise and aged cheddar is a cheeky twist on the cheeseburger. Smoked onion soufflé is exemplary, while bonito ice cream with sweet potato skins reflects a bold brand of cooking—a cornerstone of this kitchen.