Trained in star Swiss, French (and even Australian) establishments, chef Laurent Cherchi is a stalwart champion of the environment. He offers two menus, one of which is lacto-ovo-vegetarian, while the other is all-out vegan (without animal ingredients) – which is nothing if not rare in the universe of French star-rated establishments. All his produce is rigorously sourced locally, from the Cévennes to the Mediterranean (beef from Aubrac, saltbush lamb from Camargue, tomme cheese from Larzac) and the front-of-house team is more than well-versed in the ins and outs of each ingredient’s provenance. Each dish has been endlessly pondered, puzzled over and tweaked, to allow the chef’s impeccable technique (fermentation, extraction) and knife-edged accuracy to showcase the stars of the show: the veggies. Three dining rooms, which sport a stripped back vibe, and the tableware are all made to measure by local artisans.