Occasionally, predictability can be a beautiful thing, especially when it comes to rave-worthy Italian cooking. Via Carota is not so much robotically perfect as it is pleasing—in fact it’s the kind of place where dishes can (and should) be piled on. Italian style and artistry combine in this homey space that features bare wood farm tables, sideboards and whitewashed brick. A no-reservations policy means long waits that are actually worth it, so join those lines.

Diners may start nibbling on deep-fried olives that are plump, piping-hot and stuffed with pork sausage. Then, a luscious (and unmissable) risotto cacio e pepe arrives loaded with pecorino and fresh pepper. For dessert, the simple-sounding flourless chocolate cake is downright excellent.