Nyonya flaunts a comfy setting composed of brick walls and basic wood tables, but really, everyone’s here for their outstanding Malaysian food. Speedy servers steer diners through the varied menu—and perhaps even away from such delicacies as prawn mee, an exceptionally spiced and sour shrimp broth with noodles, pork, vegetables and bean sprouts floating in its goodness.

Some know to stick to such faithful and deeply satisfying dishes as nasi lemak, which is a delightful combo of coconut rice, pickled veggies, crispy anchovies, curried chicken and hard-boiled egg. The chow kueh teow, with stir-fried noodles, tiger prawns and squid, is a go-to dish, while coconut batter-fried jumbo prawns are another winner.