Chef Chip Smith and wife Tina Vaughn prove hospitality isn’t dead at their posh dining room, where genuine service and excellent cuisine have Upper East Siders giddy. Menus ask diners to refrain from cell phone usage, proving that this is an endearingly old-school spot despite its young age. And the bonhomie present sets the perfect tone for astute cooking. Agnolotti filled with parsnip purée and garnished by crunchy hazelnuts boasts an impeccable start. Then savor a cylinder of flounder, luxuriously scented with Perigord black truffle and served alongside shaved carrots formed into a gratin-like cake and frilled with breadcrumbs.

For a true-blue finish, try the Alsatian apple tart topped with torched custard and a single scoop of prune-Armagnac ice cream.