Seoul Salon

In what feels like an adult arcade, this place in Koreatown has warehouse floors, gunmetal grey finishes and neon accents. From the same group that gave us Atomix, the food here is all fun and games, a mishmash of influences pitting Korean rice cakes with basil and stracciatella or a block of cheese with shrimp fried in a thin batter. Maybe the dish that says it all is the whimsical mala pork belly, which is both puzzling to behold but also undeniably delicious. Such savory cooking is in the service of a talented bar that knows how to combine, say, peanut butter cachaça and passionfruit. At the close of the meal, banana shaved ice with banana cream, hazelnuts and orange zest makes for a brilliantly refreshing finale.