Marked by an ampersand over the door, this operation is the ultimate merging of the Old World and New Order. It’s where remnants of a glorious past live in harmony with chefs who prefer bandanas and beards to toques; and the cuisine remains as ambitious as ever despite the room's saloon-like feel.Although lunch is limited, the kitchen remains busy at all times and the cocktail program—complete with rare Pappy Van Winkle whiskey—is exceptional. Creativity is at the center of each dish, like an addictive pile of Nashville hot crispy pig ears served with a tangy pickle juice remoulade. Dessert highlights like a hibiscus tart features a riff on the key lime pie, and is presented as a sweet mousse with smooth coconut sorbet, topped with crisp coconut chips.