This tiny pizzeria has made a big splash with its panuozzo, a regional specialty hailing from Campania that’s a cross between a calzone and panino. The puffy plank of tender, salted dough emerges from San Matteo’s hand-built, wood-fired oven crusty and smoke-infused before being sliced and stuffed with first-rate ingredients (highlights include the ortolano’s fresh, house-made mozzarella, grilled eggplant, roasted sweet peppers and baby arugula).

The room is graciously attended to and perpetually crowded with neighborhood folks stuffing their faces. In addition to the appetizing house signature, other favorites feature bright salads such as escarole with Gaeta olives, capers and gorgonzola; Neapolitan-style pizza; or the day’s special baked pasta.