In a city that changes faster than you can go from uptown to down, Raoul’s (open since the 1970s) is a stalwart—here long before SoHo was a brand name. Once inside, order a cocktail and admire the art-filled walls; it’s a veritable walk through memory lane for the bohemian set.This is a place where diners return for consistently well-prepared French-American cooking. The kitchen has a delicate touch, lifting standards like a rack of lamb with oyster mushrooms or octopus with chickpea purée above the everyday. Chilled corn soup with tender chunks of lobster and creamy avocado is a perfect summer opener, while plats principaux unites seared halibut with zucchini and wild garlic risotto with freshly shelled fava beans for a simple and delicious dish.