Relais La Corte Dei Papi

Regular observers of the Italian hospitality scene risk becoming somewhat jaded; it’s worth taking a step back, every so often, to remind yourself of just what it is that makes Italian hospitality so special. And a hotel like La Corte dei Papi, a lovingly restored 1700-vintage farmhouse estate just outside of the Tuscan town of Cortona, provides ample opportunity for precisely this sort of reflection.

Italy, in general, is a country that’s comfortable mixing modern interiors with historic surroundings, but La Corte dei Papi makes only a few subtle gestures in this direction — the style, for the most part, is a historical throwback, though the estate’s original 18th-century residents might have been nonplussed at the sight of a walk-in shower or a whirlpool bath. So it’s not strictly a period piece, though in the grand scheme of things you’d have to say it’s more classic than contemporary.

The comforts of the place, of course, are of the variety that never goes out of style — large, well-appointed accommodations hold the same appeal they always did, and the restaurant, hidden away in the house’s old cellar, deals in the timeless virtues of inviting interiors and elegant, farm-fresh cuisine. And in summer you’ll dine al fresco, by the pool, surrounded by acres of gorgeous Tuscan parkland; if that’s not enough to remind you that this part of the world is something rather special, then there’s not much more to say.

How to get there:
La Corte dei Papi is located 6 miles from the Terontola train station, and 4 miles from the Camucia train station. The hotel can arrange a transfer from either train station if they’re notified of your arrival time in advance. The nearest major airport is Florence Peretola (FLR), located 85 miles away.