Is subtlety overrated? Chef Mason Hereford makes a compelling case at this kitschy restaurant on Magazine Street. Those familiar with his sandwich sensations at Turkey and the Wolf will not be surprised to find a similar kind of culinary maximalism. Big, bold, loud flavors that adhere to no one cuisine course through the cooking and consistently harmonize into something delicious. Charred cabbage and bok choy jolted with Sichuan peppercorn oil, toasted peanuts and rice is basically an entree but listed as an appetizer. Artichokes on the half shell is the garlicky, veggie alternative to the oyster classic. Room for curry? Hearts of palm, calamari and crispy rice come together seamlessly. Neon, tile and VHS tapes set a quirky, relaxed atmosphere.