Doors magically slide open as you approach this large, dark and atmospheric restaurant on the first floor of the Atlantis The Royal hotel. Using the principle of ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’, the menu is a facsimile of the one in London, so that means British dishes from across the centuries invigorated with prime ingredients. ‘Rice & Flesh’ and the much-photographed ‘Meat Fruit’ are the two classic starters; for dessert, order the ‘Tipsy Cake’ which uses pineapples that you can watch being spit-roasted in the corner of the on-view kitchen.