It would be a mistake to write off Chef Matt Baker’s brasserie, named after the chef’s late mother and inspired by his upbringing in Houston and New Orleans, as just another hotel restaurant. Instead, this spot in the Eaton Hotel, tempts with American dishes punctuated with French touches. Appetizers range from NOLA-style roasted oysters and beef tartare to crispy chicken wings, while handhelds like smashburgers and Nashville hot chicken are standbys. A large bowl filled with pozole is a cure for a cold winter's night, while pan-seared crab cakes with Old Bay remoulade and a side salad makes a nice meal. Main dishes dial up the comfort with offerings like roasted half chicken and crawfish linguine.