acquafarina

With lofty ceilings, a business casual dress code and a warning against cell phones in the dining room, this downtown Italian restaurant has equally lofty ambitions. This wasn’t always the plan: Chef Jefferson Alvarez originally meant to open as a pizzeria, which explains the large wood-burning ovens perched up above the room. But this pivot to fine dining (and a tasting menu to boot) is less severe than it seems. Friendly, uniformed servers hardly enforce the rules, and diners can still order a la carte, including pizzas at lunch. The kitchen shines brightest at more straightforward preparations, like a wonderful, chilled tomato soup with Spanish ham or delicate pasta dressed simply. The enclosed patio offers the best mix of formality and fun.