This eponymous restaurant is dark, sexy and attracts an endless stream of downtown denizens. Abundant candles produce more atmosphere than light for the room clad in exposed brick and salvaged wood. Aloof servers dressed in black seem to disappear into the background.The innovative American food excites with bold flavors, as in barbecued oysters sprinkled with pancetta powder. Montauk fluke en croute, set over roasted cauliflower, hazelnuts and capers topped with a buttery panel of toast, is dressed with sauce proposal—so named because the rich brown butter and golden raisin emulsion is said to have earned the chef a few romantic offers. It is delicious, but Chef Marc Forgione deserves equal affection for those amazing butter-glazed potato rolls.