‘Mube’ refers to the Japanese staunton vine. The owner-chef adopted the name because the plant is considered a talisman of longevity and is a famous product of his native Shiga. His use of that prefecture’s fermented foods reflects his personality, and he also prepares narezushi, fish fermented in lactic acid using salt and flour, as well as fish sauce and miso. Among the chef’s passions lies the interaction between dashi and the umami of fermentation, though he uses the latter’s characteristic flavour with restraint, in deference to modern tastes. A link climbing to the future for the food culture of his forebears.