A ‘sushi kappo’ opened by the ryotei Kikunoi. Sushi is Japanese food, after all, so inventive steps are taken to incorporate sushi into the proceedings, interspersing nigiri among the appetisers, sashimi and soup of kaiseki fame. Treatment of ingredients is unique: lobster is char-grilled and scorched in the shell, for example, and conger eel is seasoned with black seven-spices and buds of the pepper tree. Another thing you won’t find elsewhere is the ability to choose from serving ware and sake decanters crafted by none other than legendary ceramicist and epicure Rosanjin.