Kuro Mori is Japanese for"black forest", neatly capturing the "Black Forest meets Asia" concept here. In an open kitchen, modern dishes are conjured up from high-quality ingredients . Tempting examples include sea bass kinilaw with calamansi, carrot, tamarind and coconut, and veal – saddle and gyoza – with cauliflower, coriander, and pommes dauphine. The stylish urban setting is pleasingly laid-back, with striking details such as exposed brick walls and a cobblestone floor; the high ceilings towards the rear are especially impressive. The location in Freiburg's Old Town, with terrace seating along the pedestrian area in summer, is another plus.