The elegant stonewalled-path of Gyeongbokgung Palace and a modern residential neighborhood stand directly across from each other. A road is all that lies between Seoul's past and present, coexisting side by side. The same contrast is, again, evident in the modern façade of Onjieum Matgongbang and elements of tradition one discovers inside. Helmed by Cho Eun-hee, certified trainee of Korean royal court cuisine, and researcher Park Seong-bae, the space is both a research institute and restaurant. The intriguing and hugely enjoyable food it offers reflects the seasons and the refined beauty of Korean cuisine. Ask for a seat at the counter to watch the kitchen in action, and go for the thoughtfully compiled drinks pairing.