Auguste Escoffier, first head chef at the Ritz and partner of César Ritz, who founded the luxury hotel on Place Vendôme in 1898, was responsible for raising cuisine to the rank of symbol of French art de vivre. In an interior characterised by suitably low-key opulence, featuring a crystal-leaf ceiling lamp that depicts an imaginary herbarium, Eugénie Béziat now orchestrates the Ritz’ culinary score. From her glazed kitchen, the chef skilfully blends memories of her African childhood with Mediterranean influences gleaned over her culinary career. The result is both surprising and convincing, thanks to dishes that sensitively combine smoky, tangy and roasted notes. Two dazzling signatures are grilled oyster in paracress and brousse cheese and grilled lobster with a ballotine of spinach and manioc, seasoned with bissap and crushed raspberries.